Tag Archives: #TIPS

How to Make Your E-bike Go Further (E2)

Continued from the previous article The Secret of Ultra-Long Life Span – How to Make Your E-Bike Go Further (E1)

Many people wonder how far they can ride an electric-assist bike, but businesses are often unable to provide an accurate answer because there are so many variables. So, how can you ride further under the given configuration conditions? Here is a list of general tips for your reference, following the previous article on The Secret of Ultra-Long Life Span – How to Make Your E-bike Go Further (E1).

  1. Tires

Lightweight tires may appear appealing and logical, but they should not be chosen. This is a “false economy” product that will negatively impact your ride. Because of the extra weight, you will use the sidewall more on an electric bike, and because the rear wheel is difficult to get off the ground, it will take more force when hitting rocks and roots.

Higher tire pressure and heavy-duty tires are required to avoid frequent sidewall punctures. While weight is one of the influencing factors for range longevity, durability and size must also be considered.

  1. Brakes

Don’t skimp on efficient brakes, just like you wouldn’t on tires. Upgrade to four-piston brakes if possible. You’ll improve your power by braking less frequently and only when necessary. And a thousand reminders to check your brake pads for wear frequently before, during, and after a ride, and to always keep spare pads on hand.

  1. Chains and Guide Pulleys

A clean, well-lubricated, and free-rolling chain experiences far less resistance than a dirty, poorly maintained chain. And, especially when shifting uphill, the motor can put a lot of strain on the drive train. So, as detailed in the How to Maintain Your Electric Bike article on how to clean your chain, check for wear and tear regularly and keep it well lubricated.

  1. Turning

Leaning your e-bike into a turn requires more muscle power, but once your balance and center of gravity are correct, the weight of the bike will maintain consistent traction. To get a longer ride, avoid bouncing between turns and instead take a more cautious approach. Try pedaling around corners while keeping the motor running on slight uphill or flat gentle turns. If you think you’re going too fast, slow down but keep the cranks turning. We discovered that this continuous and calmer motion consumes less energy than braking and then skidding.

  1. Climbing a hill

Remember to shift into neutral before pressing the power button. Again, high cadence is essential. Find a comfortable seat that allows you to keep your weight on the rear wheel. An e-front bike’s wheel is less likely to lift, allowing you to sit up straighter and concentrate on traction. Shift down through the flywheel to keep the motor running at a high cadence. Keep your gaze on the horizon; don’t be concerned about a slick course; instead, concentrate on maintaining power.

  1. Downhill

Don’t forget to set the downhill mode to “energy saving.” Even if you believe it makes no difference because you won’t be pedaling much at this time. But it works, and over the course of a 30-40km ride, it all adds up. Don’t think about accelerating sharply once the speed exceeds the speed limiter (25kph/15.5mph). Instead, keep a steady cadence and maintain your impulse in the turns. Rather than pedaling, accelerate, as the bike will not accelerate without this assistance. Don’t be concerned about roots and rocks; you won’t be able to jump up like a normal bike, and you’ll take them out anyway. Consider going bigger and wider!

How to Make Your E-bike Go Further (E1)

E-bike can usually be ridden more frequently than regular bikes, but who wouldn’t want to have more longevity? So, what are the requirements for getting the most out of an electric-assist battery and motor?

Even the best electric-assist mountain bikes can cause headaches due to range if ridden in an inappropriate manner or set up incorrectly. This is the time to pay attention to the ten super helpful tips that will extend the range of your electric-assist bike ride!

  1. Power mode

Please use the battery’s “smart” mode. For example, use Bosch’s eMTB mode, or launch the bicycle motor manufacturer’s app on your phone to see how the motor is configured. Simply reduce the power levels or choose one of the preset values. Shimano’s “Explorer” mode, for example, maybe better for you than its default “Dynamic” preset. Many Shimano STEPS users, for example, now prefer to stay in “Eco” mode for 95 percent of the stroke and only use the low-power “Boost” mode for the remaining 5% of the stroke. Bypass Trail mode entirely. It’s also critical to keep your e-bike’s firmware in good working order by using the most recent software. This is typically accomplished through the use of Bluetooth on your phone, so it should be fairly simple, right?

For example, the Bafang mid-motor system typically has 5 gears for riders to choose from; however, except for the long and difficult steep slopes that inevitably necessitate strong power mode, 2-3 gears can handle more than 70% of road conditions; While the TENTEN power mid-motor system equipped by BESTRONG Travel has different modes of ECO, NORMAL, SPORT, and TURBO, it also has the i-SPORT automatic mode, which will automatically adjust the power output based on the current load. Furthermore, there is an i-SPORT automatic mode that will automatically adjust the output power based on the current state, and selecting the right power mode during the ride can help you save a lot of electricity.

  1. Shifting gears

This is a common mistake made by e-bike owners, namely ignoring the transmission. When you are unable to pedal, do not simply turn the turnbuckle; instead, apply pressure to the motor and battery. Adjust your gear ratios to make your e-bike last longer and ride farther; after all, it is still primarily a human-powered bike.

  1. Pedaling frequency

Any mechanic at a bike shop will tell you that the most serious issue that some electric-assist cyclists face is an addiction to pedaling frequency. This not only consumes power faster (causing customers to complain about not getting the advertised mileage), but it also drains the powertrain faster than it’s worth.

To keep the motor running at full power, you must pedal rather than skid. Pedal at a speed of 70 to 90 RPM. You’ll get the most assistance if you keep turning the crank. When the pedaling frequency falls, the motor slows down, which is especially inconvenient on steep climbs. Because electric-assist bikes benefit from a wide range of 1x drivetrains, you’ll need to change gears frequently to optimize your pedaling frequency.

For the next episode, please click: The Secret of Ultra-long Life Span – How to Make Your E-bike Go Further (E2)

How many degrees of slope can the bike climb

How many degrees of slope can you climb?

This is a topic that is prone to bragging solitaire, and the fact that people frequently confuse two different units of slope measurement makes this topic contentious.

We join Rhett Allen, a physics professor at Southeastern Louisiana University, in this article to discover the limits of bike climbing.

The first definition of slope is the steepness of the surface unit; typically, the slope I is the ratio of vertical height h to horizontal distance l. Both percentage and degree are expressions of slope; the percentage formula is vertical height / horizontal distance * 100 percent, and the degree formula is tanα = vertical height / horizontal distance.

Consider the following examples.

A highway has a maximum slope of 5%, 3°.

The maximum slope of a parking garage is 15%, 8°.

The climbing capacity of a car is 36%, 20°. Certain off-road vehicles can climb 60%, almost 30°, which is the slope of stairs in an ordinary building.

100% slope is 45 °, almost a cliff feeling.

How steep a hill can be climbed does not depend on power.

“If you don’t care about the speed of climbing, say a fraction of a meter per second, you can keep climbing with very little friction. It’s like lifting a heavy object with a pulley that only requires a small motor.”

Rhett Allain is a physics professor at Southeastern Louisiana University who writes a physics science column for Wired magazine.

In theory, as long as the right gear ratio is found, a very small amount of power is sufficient to sustain the climb.

However, a very small gear ratio requires the rider to turn his legs like crazy, maintain a very high pedaling frequency, and if he is not careful, he will fall off the bike because it is too slow.

When combined with the actual situation, the climb’s speed could not be too slow, so Professor Allan set the climb’s minimum speed to walking speed, 2 meters per second. Then he performed extremely complex calculations in a very professional physics manner, eventually determining that 40 percent gradient is the maximum gradient that the bike can challenge, at which point it must do 422 watts of work, a power value that professional cyclists almost always achieve.

If you want to split hairs and see how far the slope goes, no matter how much power we output or what gear ratio the bike has, we can’t go up another meter, and the center of gravity becomes a keyword.

The only thing you can’t get past is the center of gravity.

We all know that when the slope steepens to a certain point, we fall backward.

We fall back when the vertical extension of the rider’s center of gravity with the ground is not between the contact points of the two wheels and the ground.

And, more specifically, where is the cyclist’s center of gravity?

Keith Bontrager, an elite-level Bikefitting mechanic, says this is difficult to explain conceptually, but he generally sets the center of gravity 3 to 4 cm behind the pedals when the crank is at the nine-o’clock position on the cassette side.

To determine the point at which the cyclist falls back, we must perform a trigonometric calculation: Tilt angle = 90° – [Tan-1 (height of the center of gravity horizontal distance from where the rear wheel lands to the center of gravity)]

This formula yields a critical point of 25.8°, corresponding to a 48 percent gradient. Of course, this is true if the rider remains seated in the car seat throughout the climb.

When the angle becomes too steep, we all have to leave the cushion and rock up to two steps.

If the center of gravity for this stance rocker is recalculated, a new critical point of 41°, or 86.9 percent, is obtained. This appears to allow the rider to conquer any crag, putting off-road jeeps to shame.

However, one factor, the friction between the tires and the ground, is significantly underestimated in this set of calculations. Anyone who drives knows that when the slope is too steep, the tires slip, and bicycles are no exception.

The first disappointment is always the tire friction.

Hristian Wurmbäck, a product manager for Maersk tires, states unequivocally that tire friction will be the first thing to fail when climbing steep hills.

“The coefficient of friction of a complex compound such as rubber is difficult to predict: is it dry, is it wet, how dry is it, how wet is it… You’ll never find the perfect one that can be used in every situation.”

“From asphalt to wet mixed soil surfaces, the coefficient of friction performance of the tires ranged from 0.3 to 0.9.”

Professor Allan optimistically set the coefficient of friction at 0.8, but after applying his complex formula, the friction of the tires could only support a 38.7° climb, or roughly 80% of the grade.

However, the estimate of 0.8 is always too optimistic, considering that 30% of road construction ramps are made of concrete, not asphalt gravel roads, and the coefficient of friction of rubber drops to 0.6 during movement and applying Professor Alain’s formula, the slope obtained is approximately 60%.

Even if you’re confident you have enough power, the right sizing ratio, and exceptional center of gravity control, you’ll be beaten by a 60% steeper grade because your tires will let you down unless you keep a bottle of 502 in your cycling suit at all times.

The good news is that an HC climb (short for hors CATégorie in French, meaning “outside the class” and denoting the most difficult climb) is only a 10km or more climb with an average gradient of 7.5 percent, according to the UCI.